Second Week in USA

Well I reckon we are just about under control. A lot has been achieved in two weeks.

Thursday was finally pick up day for the kayak. We drove down to Houston to a warehouse. I had all the paperwork, had paid all of the enormous costs including 26% duty on Klaas’s old underpants but none on the kayak. It took about half an hour to actually bring the crate out. Talk about a cat on a hot tin roof. It would have had nothing on me prancing around waiting until I actually saw the crate on a forklift high up over the other boxes and over a hundred metres down the warehouse. It eventually came into view with the forklift pushing it along the concrete. Half an hour later were gone, after unloading all the heavy stuff and having it lifted onto the roof racks. There was a bit of damage and absolutely everything had been taken apart, although I don’t think they opened the plastic bags with Klaas’s clothes in them.

It cost about $4k to get the crate here and as most of that was in fees and charges, not the freight, I guess we will cop the same from Canada to the UK.

We are booked in at an RV Park in New Orleans for Monday night and will leave here long before dawn that morning.

The travel trailer is huge and weighs 3t dry so the towing gear is pretty serious. Next week I will post some shots of the inside.

This isn’t a big one for over here.

Hang on Sunshine I’m just gonna clean it 

Are you sure you know what you’re doin’?

Of course, just pull that bit down will ya.

Done, just a few bubbles to prick.

We won’t get a job applying stickers but they work

Told you Nick was tall.  

The new sail and I think we have it right. 

Klaas from yesterday

Hi all. Busy busy busy. Stevie Wonder is his usual maniacal self, running around like a ” Blue arsed fly “. Purchasing last minute things after we picked up the caravan, (Travel Trailer in this country) only a ten hour return journey to Houston and me trying to fit it all in and secure so it does not fly around while traveling. This morning, while travelling from the trailer park where we stayed two days to my son’s place, on arriving and opening the caravan door we were met with a site I won’t forget. Stupid me, yes I know, past my use by date, forgot to secure the pantry door and it spilled all onto the floor, braking a litre bottle of the finest cold pressed olive oil and the entire floor was covered in it., and all the tins, bottles, packages and cans were covered in oil, where they had been rolling around. Six thousand rolls of kitchen paper later most of it was gone. But it was still like a skating ring but a hot bath with detergent finally fixed it. Stupid old man. Won’t do that again, will I? After washing all the contents and drying them of I finally had my pantry back in order .I think I need to sit down and have a cuppa (Don’t you believe it)

Give me burnt feet, legs that can only shuffle, lee shores with waves crashing over me and the cliffs, pouring rain, searing heat, toxic mud. That was so easy compared to this.

Despite the blind alleys, the obstacles, the bloody systems etc, the past week has seen the following:

• Bought vehicle Mon and registered in my name with number plates (they usually take them off but the bloke came to the tax office so we didn’t have to)
• Joined AAA and got a new car battery Wed when it died
• Bought travel trailer (caravan) Tues and pick it up Wed next week. It was just traded and we got it for about private sale price.
• Kayak sail was delivered Wed by UPS. Found it at house across the street and a few doors down Friday morning. Cost $458 to send here so was not happy when I couldn’t find it. UPS systems difficult when things go wrong like that.
• Got crook Wednesday night. Still had nightmares on second night but no hallucinations, muscle weakness, diarrhoea, nausea etc which was the case for nearly 24hrs
• Klaas’s girlfriend, Lynne, is coming over as soon as she can get a visa. She will stay until the end so he will have company and advice when I am on the water.
• Got insurance Monday but finalized Friday when I got my Texas license
• Fabrication shop is making kayak crate rack for bulbar. Should get it fitted Monday. Crate was supposed to be at Houston Friday but not there yet.
• Have not been able to get a US bank account. Dollar seems to fall every day, but that’s life. Things are not cheap here but not too bad.

Two weeks to go before I get on the water. Can’t wait!!!!

Towing vehicle is a 4WD 2001 Ford Expedition

From Klaas

Hi all. Been in the US now over two weeks. Spending some quality time bonding and getting to know Son Number 2 again who has been here two decades.  I am in Austin Texas and the weather is all over the place. When I arrived it was around twenty degrees and sunny. Then 4 days of cold and then lovely sunny, shorts and T shirt weather and today it is back down to 3 degrees. The yanks are strange people. They drive on the wrong side of the road, all light switches work the opposite way and the toilets swoosh from the bottom .On the whole, the Texans are very friendly but they talk “Funny”. That drawl is unmistakable .My son and daughter in law have been wonderful and both Steve and I are staying with them. They have taken us to many memorable places. Kayaking up and down the Colorado river, dining in the world’s largest restaurant (The Oasis, seats 3000 people over 4 floors), the Alamo Theatre where you drink and dine watching the latest movie, and many other unusual dining experiences. Most menus are both in English and Spanish. The Yanks certainly know the word “Service”. On the whole, eating out (everybody seems to do it) is cheaper than Aus. Steve in the meantime is his usual self, (like a can of worms) that can’t sit still and relax for more than 3 seconds and spends hours on the internet chasing this that and other. However, it is all coming together and the expedition now sprouts a Ford Expedition 5.4 litre 4wd yank tank 9 seater and a 29′ Caravan (Travel Trailer in Yank talk). Has all the gadids like press a button and the lounge room slides out .Hopefully tomorrow we pick up the kayak in Houston, but it is not there yet. It had been delayed in transit and Steve has the heebie jeebies about it. That is all from me for now.

The day started with just a few nerves. Klaas and I enjoyed the early boating report that said 3.4m waves with the occasional 6m waves. They are the ones that get you, so it was reassuring to just have a nice easy harbor paddle.

Because I was early I decided to wait near the point opposite the landing wharf but my peace and quiet lasted less than two minutes. Some bloke on the land was screaming at me:

“Get out this is naval waters.”

“Sorry mate, how far back to I have to go to get out of the area?”

“This is naval waters, go outside the yellow bouys out there in the harbour.”

“I need to stay close to shore, how far back do I have to go?”

“This is naval waters, get out there.”

“I need to stay close to land.”

“Get out of naval waters!” he yelled, while waving to a boat to come and get me.

I waved to the skipper and said “How far back doe this extend, I need to stay close to the bank?”

“This is naval waters, go outside the yellow bouys out there in the harbour”

“Just tell me how far back I have to go, I need to stay close to the bank.”

“This is naval waters, you must go outside those yellow bouys out there.”

“OK mate, if I go out there and get capsized by one of those fast boats shooting past will you come and get me?”

“No, get out of naval waters or you will be fined”

That was pretty clear. Charming eh? Obviously not employed for their intelligence.

So I sat for half an hour just outside the bouys, dodging 1m high breaking wakes from large and fast vessels while the boat stayed just inside the bouys ready to probably ram me if I slipped inside them, and the guy on the bank stood and watched.

Would have been nice to feel proud of our navy but unfortunately I was anything but.

Finally getting sick of copping water on me, I went over to Fort Denison for five minutes before Connor called and said come in.

That was the start of a great improvement. As the shape of the wharf grew, the crowd became evident. A sea of blue shirts. Goodonya Klaas, must have sold a lot of shirts. What a salesman.

I pulled in and threw Klaas the rope as pre-arranged and stepped up the ladder to a sea of people, many of whom were familiar, and tried to take it all in. We dragged the kayak up and there was Ian, a sailor and friend and ever reliable, just hovering and helping.

As I absorbed the friendship and the many, many face, I tried to thank everyone and then fell silent. Bob Brown grabbed the hiatus and made an absolutely brilliant speech which included Tony Abbott paddling us backwards on climate change and some very emotional things about me and the trip. I was truly humbled, and at the same time proud and a tiny bit choked up, but hid that bit pretty well.

Next was David Hood. Hoody is always at the ready to say a few words and he introduced the engineering aspects as well as a tribute to me.

At my turn I think I did OK, setting out the sort of thing that I have covered in my blogs, emphasizing the engineering and the need for action, the strength of character of the majority of Australians, the lack of that in our politicians and the fact that Australians are better than that.

Thanks to everyone who has supported me. I am back in Brisbane and frantically preparing to leave early Friday. Lots and lots to do.

Over for now but not out.

Steve

I’m here!

Bob’s the tall one, I’m the one in the skirt

Listening to Bob. Sarina (Klaas’s daughter) is in the background

Some of the crowd

Which way to the Mississippi?

Boring, boring, boring Paula. Sorry, can’t make anything up that is believable.

Amongst other land lubber duties, Klaas and I went to see Trevor Waters who was making a sail for me. This is exciting because it may well be a way to beat the strong Mississippi current. Check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/KayakSails

Trevor and Cathy have given me one for the trip. All I have to do now is figure out how to post it to the USA because I can’t take it on the plane with the fare that I have. Then of course there is the fitting to the kayak assuming it gets out of customs OK.

It looks exciting and Trevor is an incredible bloke. He was trained as a heritage architect but has branched out into inventing low greenhouse gas concrete as well as this amazing sail. He also intends to kayak from northern NSW to Adelaide. Maybe I should have told him that the people who do that are all stark raving mad. He has done 2400km before so he should know what he is doing.

Tomorrow is the big finish. Let’s see what it brings. The Nannas’ sign should be quite prominent at the opera house and Bob said last week that he will be there with bells on. Klaas might even sell a Cry Me a River or two and a few T-shirts.

Well, it constantly changes. The weather report for Friday was for continuing strong winds so we went to La Perouse to investigate. My anxiety levels were high because the wind was directly from the south shifting slightly SSE and really strong. Do I go or don’t I? We ponced around for ages Iooking for vantage points along the coast. It probably would have been fine but had something broken at sea there would have been problems getting in and I didn’t want to risk bad press.

Decision. Back on with the wheels and a quick 15km stroll up Bunnerong Rd and Anzac Pde to Rushcutters Bay after a very late start.

The kayak is in the Cruising Yacht Club compound courtesy of a lovely man called Gerard.

Klaas:  Hi all. This will be my final contribution until we start the USA. Master Posselt decided this morning he would do the final lap to Sydney Harbour but when we arrived at yesterday’s finish in La Perouse the seas where up and a 35 knot wind was blowing so instead of having a good chance of losing the kayak he decided to put the wheels back on and walk the distance to Rushcutters Bay and launch it at the CYC on Saturday to arrive at the opera house at mid day. It has been an interesting journey and top marks for Steve, who did all the hard yards and walked and kayaked every inch of the way from Canberra to Sydney. Good night all and those that are able, please make the effort and be at the opera house Saturday at 12.

Leaving La Perouse

Walking up Anzac Pde

Surprise, surprise. Thursday became a strong winds day as well so re-think. No rest today after all.

It was a quick 3.6km sprint in the rain to Woolooware Bay then back to the cabin to remove wheels. What looked like the only access to the water wasn’t all it seemed. The whole area has Cronulla Leagues Club, Toyota or industrial estate facing the mangroves. I thought this was a pretty poor use of water front land. Little did I know.

Anyway, slipping down a road between Toyota and the Leagues Club got me to the side of a drain that flowed through the mangroves. It was easy access beside the drain on decomposing woodchips to the start of the mangroves and then I thought about 15m through the trees and I would be there. It was dead low tide which turned out to be a mistake.

Immediately after the mangroves I went over my knee in mud but managed to use the kayak to stop sinking further. Nothing for it but to climb in. That worked but I had forgotten to unclip the rudder so had to slide back along the kayak on my belly to unhook it.

Once reinstated I could jerk forwards and use the paddle to propel me like on water. This worked slowly for 200m until I gradually started to float. The reading on the GPS was 300m when paddling became normal. Then I was confronted with a sea of rusty steel spikes about a metre or two apart, depending on the row. There was a sign that said Oyster Farm 30-58 but it had obviously been a long time since any oysters had been farmed there.

With only a couple of wrong turns and 2km from the start I was into the moorings area with a mixture of sailing and work vessels. There was a western land marker but to my chagrin I ignored it and headed about 300m inside it. All would have been fine at high tide, but it was left turn and head south west when I saw the sand bar.

Woolooware Bay is not much to look at and the mud has something unpleasant in it because pretty soon I had my leg over the side trying to wash away the stinging. Once out though, the bay is quite pleasant with lots of sand and Sans Souci just a few hundred metres across the water.

It was a bit of a slog into the wind until the wharf at Kurnell where I hid out of the wind behind what looked like an oil tanker. From there it was a quick dash across the heads into La Perouse. Total paddling only 14km but I am now right into Sydney.

Thursday (tomorrow) will have to be a rest day and then Friday will either be a paddle around to Watsons Bay or a walk there.

Klaas: Hi all. Another day. Heavy rain squalls. Up early and about. Steve did his usual crazy things. Launched kayak twice and second one was in mangroves and mud at the Southern end of Botany Bay. Watching him sliding and slipping through the mud and slush, expecting crocodiles to rip him apart he paddled across to La Perouse where I picked him up again .Weather forecast atrocious for tomorrow, (Thursday) but will see what happens. Not long to go now and after the big farewell on Saturday I won’t be able to contribute for a while as I am flying to the USA Sunday. If I don’t see or hear from you lot I will catch up later.Klaas

Day of rest with sometimes heavy rain. We got everything out of the back of the ute. Much of it is wet but it has been repacked to make space. Visited Cronulla Beach and there is a spot in the corner near the rocks where I can get out relatively easily. The board riders are about 200m round the rocks and also 50m along the beach. Should be a nice little gutter at higher tide tomorrow.

GoPro problem was just the lead I think because is charging now.

Last night I was awake about midnight reflecting on the day’s excitement and decided to grade it.

1 = zero concern, 10 = lots of concern even fear.

Looking at seas at Stanwell Park                          8

Starting at rocks at Coalcliff                                    2

After first wave and the rudder locked             7

After sand came out of rudder second wave  2

Just making the big set                                             4

Paddling past Stanwell Park                                   3

One hour into isolated area                                   6

Two hours in                                                                 9

Coming inside bombie                                             7

Into Port Hacking                                                        1

Not sure whether to get off twitter. This is hard enough and a lot sacrificed without personal gain to want to see the negative tweets like those that came through this morning following the Illawarra Mercury article. http://readnow.isentia.com/Temp/75465/365513993.pdf . Maybe I’m just being a sook though, and need to brush off that sort of thing. Politicians cop it all the time and Phillip Adams reckons journos do too. Adventurers (this one anyway) are not strong outside their goal of getting from A to B. Note that the photographer didn’t get me falling out hee hee.

Tomorrow’s plan was to get around Kurnell, fuel up in the lee and then sprint up to Sydney harbor. Then again I am seriously considering postponing for another day. Thursday looks better if I go early

Wednesday 28 January

Strong Wind Warning for Wednesday for Sydney Coast

Winds:    Southeasterly 20 to 25 knots tending southerly in the morning. Winds reaching up to 30 knots during the afternoon and evening.

Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.  SwellEasterly 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 2.5 metres during the morning, then tending southeasterly 2.5 to 3 metres during the afternoon.

Thursday 29 January

Winds South to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots increasing to 25 to 30 knots during the afternoon.

Seas1.5 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.

Swell Southeasterly 1 to 2 metres.

Ah ha late post: Critical tweets are from science deniers so don’t need to worry about people without clear intellectual processing abilities. Can’t find it in my heart to feel sorry for them though.

Troubles last night with the GoPro. Could not get it to turn on even with the charger. Not sure if me or camera so Tuesday will go to a camera shop. Not good news from USA. Kayak now due Houston 18^th Feb and need to sort out extra payments. Would have been in a lot of trouble without Klaas’s son Nick. He has been a godsend.

Got ready for a big day, gloves on taped up hands, tied paddle to front etc. Arrived at Stanwell Park to find big seas and 20 knots of sou’easter. Reckoned it was 50:50 whether I could get out or end up strewn along the beach, so waited 2hrs for surf club blokes. They suggested try Coalcliff which I didn’t realise was there so after a quick trip down to inspect we loaded the kayak back onto the ute and headed there.

A bloke called Rob said he would help me get it into the water. I need to get the skirt over the cockpit when I’m on the sand and then knuckle push to the water, but I also need someone at the front to keep the nose into the waves otherwise I get washed sideways. Rob was really good and we agreed on the timing when it was time to go.

Took off over rocks just under the water, bided my time with small waves and then bit the bullet and took off at full speed. Klaas got some shots and I have since shown him how to focus.

Rob helping me start

First little wave

Second little wave

That was close. The one behind it was even closer. The kayak is nearly 6m long so that’s 3m out of the water.

Made it and all good. You can just see my head and the paddle

After turning left the wind was over my right shoulder although the swell was coming from the side. It was pretty good for an hour or so. There were some great runners that would send me scooting along, sometimes up a wave and down the back. Top speed was 16.8km/hr. I defy anyone to pick a runner just by looking. I certainly can’t. It is a matter of feeling when it is on and then using it. One of the best paddles I have had was with Denise and Raz in the OC4. None of the crap about here comes one, we all just felt it and went with the lifts.

The wind came round to side on and then it got really wet and messy. Swells were about 2m, which looks like a mountain from a kayak, but there were other peaks like 1m high anthills all over them. On top of that the odd breaker would come through from the side at chest height. I did a lot of feathering with the right blade to stay upright.

Of course all of this fills the kayak up with water because it runs in down the lifejacket and any other opening it can find. I had to stop and bale every 20mins or so but did manage drinks and pee stops albeit very quick ones. With the spray skirt off things are very exposed.

The wind picked up and things got very bumpy indeed. No chance for niceties like using the pee bottle, it was just do it and bugger the consequences. Bit like peeing in a wetsuit though I suppose.

Eventually I came to a deserted beach. At the end of it I was about 200m from the cliffs which was at least 300m closer than intended. Not sure how that happened but it was probably a current, so I paddled hard to get back out to sea.

The cliffs are not straight so every time I would get close to the last one I could see I would hope that the next one was set back a bit. That would mean I could start tracking more north than north east. After about four or five disappointments the coastline did turn and the wind went back to coming over my right shoulder. It was still too scary to lift the skirt except for the briefest of baling flurries.

A big plane materialised in the clouds ahead so I knew the airport was not too far away, which meant Cronulla was even closer. Kurnell was just visible between rain squalls, but it took ages to find Cronulla tucked well to the left. I came round the corner inside a bombie, headed across the bay that became calmer the further in I got and started to relax. Phew. Glad that was over.

GPS said 32km at Gunnamatta Park. Time 3hrs 50 minutes. Lucky I had gloved and taped up. There had been plenty of full strength efforts. Klaas wrote the following while he waited.

Klaas: Now I know you are mad Stevie boy. Bloody two meter waves, bashing the beach at Stanwell Park and you wanted to launch a kayak. I proffered the suggestion you might wait one or two days. But no, you had the bit between your teeth and estimated your survival in those conditions 50:50. A somewhat wiser and knowledgeable surf club member suggested you try Coalcliffe beach and with the help of a life saver that held you into the wind you launched and very spectacular it was. All the fellows on the hill where I was filming reckoned you would never make it. I was amongst them and you made me eat my words. You crazy bastard, my hat off to you, that is if you make it all the way to Cronulla. It is a long way from there to here, including the extra 6 km. you already had done.

Very short day, 24km. Beautiful morning and lots of people about when I left about 7.30am. About 20 surf skis paddled towards Wollongong Harbour as I headed north. There was a gentle Nor’wester about 4 knots that built to about 10 knots and then died.

I kept well out to sea because of the jet skis near the coast and because that was the straight line to where I wanted to go. A northerly started and swung round to a nor’easter finally building to about 15 knots. It was bumpy with plenty of small white caps but nothing like yesterday. It should have been better near the coast because of the high escarpment so I veered that way. About half a kilometre off the beach the mozzie buzzing sound of a jet ski reminded me of my pet hate. Shame you can’t shoot ‘em but I’m all for a hunting season where you can.

The Wollongong escarpment and beaches are beautiful. Shame I am camera challenged but will take the GoPro tomorrow. As I came closer to the land the water turned green but remained very clear. Despite paddling against the wind it was very pleasurable. So much so that I forgot to nurse my hands and got some small blisters. I even managed a few runners on the rebound from the swells against the rocks.

The long Pacific Rollers are always a joy to watch. The only problem is when it is time to come into land.

When I got to the Sea Cliff Bridge the wind started to drop with only the occasional white cap. Maybe it was today that the nice policeman from yesterday meant. Whatever, it was a welcome relief and the GPS climbed back over 6km/hr.

I had spoken on the phone to Klaas about 1½ hours from Stanwell Park. There is no phone reception there so he told me there was a creek on the right and to pull in there. We should have discussed north or south because there was a creek on the southern end. I paddled halfway along the beach almost to the flagged area but no Klaas so decided to go in anyway. The beach was steep and I needed someone to grab the front of the kayak when I hit the sand, so I shouted instructions to some young people on the beach. It was a shame they didn’t hear me because I came in nicely on the back of a wave only to be spun sideways and rolled in the sand by the next one.

Tipped out what I could of the sand and water and dragged the kayak up to the clubhouse. Found Klaas further along the beach sitting on a sandhill in the blazing sun looking for me. He had a good view of the area where I came in so his positioning was good. Just a shame he didn’t see me.

People and traffic everywhere but we did find accommodation in a pub at Thirroul. It was a bit expensive but there is a washing machine and dryer here that is being put to good use.

Just booked accommodation at Cronulla Cabins on the Kingsway for tomorrow and Tuesday nights so need to do a good paddle tomorrow and pull in near Cronulla railway station.

Klaas: His majesty in his usual form paddled from Wollongong to Stanwell Park and requested me to be there at around noon to receive him coming in through the surf with me heroically grabbing the front handle so he would not slide back in with the wash. I spend two hours in 38 degrees heat watching the ocean, getting totally dehydrated and mumbling incoherently “Where is the stupid bastard” when he appeared out of nowhere and said “where the F……….. were you. He sneaked in around the corner on the opposite side of the beach of course so he could capsize and look pathetic. I’m now for several cold beers. Cheers. Klaas

Warm and overcast with very thick air this morning but galloped the 8km to the water which was where the Princes Highway crosses Macquarie Rivulet. The Wollongong Mercury photographer met us at 9.00am as arranged by Con but none of the other media turned up.

Some old bloke waiting for the media to arrive:

My entrance into the kayak was a bit wet. I had forgotten my legs don’t work too well after walking so I finished up falling out before I got in. Luckily the photographer had moved downstream.

All good so far:

Let’s try that again:

It was a very easy paddle across Lake Illawarra with glassy water except for a puff of nor’easter every now and then. I couldn’t figure out what the weather would do but was concerned that we would get a bit of a blow.

A couple of guys gave me a bum steer on which way to go around an island near Windang so I did a bit of knuckle pushing and walking  in ankle deep water just like on the Darling. Met up with Klaas eventually, grabbed a hamburger and set off for the mouth. Just before I got there I had a chat with the water police (young blokes again) who told me that the forecast was for winds easing.

Hit the ocean against a stong incoming tide with 8-10 knots nor-easter. Within an hour the police passed me about a kilometer closer to the beach with the wind 12-15 knots and waves building. I wondered which day he meant that the wind would ease. It built to about 18 knots with lots of white water but I bashed on past the islands off Port Kembla.

I saw some tall pine trees in the distance and aimed for them but just after that, what appeared to be a lighthouse was on the horizon. A quick phone call to Klaas to let him know that’s where I would head and it was back to avoiding the breakers.

Not sure how far it was to Wollongong but that was the lighthouse. It was a hard slog, dodging breaking waves, and it was noisy. There is the noise of the kayak bouncing, the swish of the paddles because they don’t hit the water well in a big chop, and then there is the crash and roar of waves as they go past.

Pulled into Wollongong Harbour about 4.00pm where I beached the kayak and took about two minutes to climb out of it. Klaas was relieved to see me and I was bloody glad that paddle was over. Daily total 36km.

Klaas: Hi all. This bloke Steve is unbelievable. Walks all the way from Canberra, hops into the kayak, (falls in the drink ha ha) and than paddles across lake Illawarra, out to sea and to Wollongong. I am waiting at the harbor and thought he had bought it. At 4pm I decided he was lost and started to ring the water police when he rang me that he was safe. Boo………………………..