Before I start here is Lyn’s account of the day off on the 12^th.

Lyn:        Catch up day, as a Southerly is blowing. We are staying at the Edgewater Holiday Park, and our camping skills are improving. We are pretty sure that we are now waterproof. Steve went out and purchased a ginormous tarpaulin, however we don’t really want rain to prove our theory.

After a bit of early morning catch up, we went into Port Macquarie for a big breakfast. Steve drove to the house he lived in when he was 17, it’s still there. He even pointed out the window to his room and told me. “That’s where I used to throw my sleeping bag out the window at night, I’d meet my girlfriend and we would go up to the headland. I learnt a lot up there!”

We noticed that the Port News was just along the street, their reporter, Peter Daniels had been trying to catch up with Steve for an interview, so as we were there we popped in. The receptionist was super helpful and tried to locate Peter, but to no avail, she said. “I bet as soon as you go he will turn up.” We had also noticed that the ABC radio studio was across the road, so we walked over there. Steve introduced himself and sure enough just before we stepped inside the studio we noticed a man waving at us from the Port News. You guessed it Peter. It’s a wonder Steve’s head fitted through the door! Before we knew it we were in their studio doing a recorded interview with Fiona, their breakfast announcer. After this we walked back over to the Port News and Steve did do an interview with Peter.

Back to me and as you can see I didn’t edit Lyn’s comments. We had a late start on the 13th, arriving back at Town Beach at 8.00pm where Peter arrived for a few shots before I set off for the paddle in and greeting at 9.00am. There was no need to paddle up the river because the current was flowing at 8.5km/hr. Confirmed with Lyn at 8.50am that everything was in place and arrived two minutes early. You can see from the photos that for a weekday turnout was pretty good.

Formalities over I headed back to sea against the run in tide and then scooted off to Camden Haven where I arrived with 36km on the log and 18.7km/hr top speed. Woo hoo, that was fun with a strong northerly and not a big swell.

Then it was back to Port for the presentation. Stressed a bit when the computer didn’t recognize the projector and probably should not have said “Shit!” quite so loudly but all was well. Met an old teacher, Mr Landy (I think Bill but we didn’t use Christian names then, just Sir) gave me a year book from 1970 when I was there plus a 50^th school anniversary book. The presentation took 1 hr 15 mins which when I checked people were happy with. That gives me time to relax and throw on some humorous anecdotes and still cover all the way to Paris.

On my way to the bottle shop for a drink with dinner I passed the old court house where they took my driving licence from me when I was 18 but that is another story.

Lyn     Friday 13^th       The local Branch of Climate Change Australia had organised a welcome for Steve to Westport Park at 9am.  Before Steve launched from Town Beach to paddle around the corner through the bar to reach the park at 9am he did another interview with Peter Daniels; a filmed interview this time for their online news. Peter has taken an interest in Steve’s story and has a good grasp of the Climate Change dilemma.

The Climate Change members and friends were excited to meet Steve and to be part of his journey. They have done a brilliant job informing the media of Steve’s trip, its purpose and the Climate Emergency Declaration.  He was front page news in the Port Express and page 3 of the Port News, plus online articles in the Port News.

After the official welcome the crowd cheered him on his way! He hit the water paddling at 9.30 ready to paddle as far as possible with the late start; keeping in mind that we had to be back at Port for his presentation that night at 6pm.

We did a radio check at Tacking Point Lighthouse at 10.30. He pulled into the lee of the headland for morning tea. As he was getting ready to paddle off, a curious tourist boat pulled up next to him for a chat; they wanted to know more about the interesting little kayak with its sail. Visitors departed, he was on his way. He had a favourable wind and he took off towards Bonnie Hills.  12.30 Steve radioed in, he was travelling well and making good time so he decided to push on towards Camden Haven. He guessed his arrival time to be around 1.30.

I was walking along the breakwall at 1.15 ready to film the action as he came through the bar.  Damn, I wasn’t quite in position and I could see him approaching. He was powering along, surfing the waves in. I did however manage to get some good action shots. Steve called out as he neared the wall. “Gees that was fun.”

With no time to waste we headed back to Port to get ready for Steve’s presentation that night. Once again the local group were well organised. It was held at the Port CWA room, a good venue.  The wonderful Kerri-Anne was already there setting up when we arrived. It was a great night, with an enthusiastic audience of 50. Steve delivered a great presentation and fielded many questions from the audience.

These presentations work two ways. Firstly, Steve inspires people to continue with their Climate action work and even build on their work. Secondly they inspire Steve to continue spreading his message and his knowledge on the problems that lie ahead if our governments persist on ignoring the emergency that climate change has become.

I think their name might be Climate Change Australia

Too right Nicholas. It is great to see young people involved and it is also good to show young people that some of us oldies are trying to do something.

Anyone contemplating paddling up the Mississippi in a flood could use this for practice. Current in is 8.5km/hr and you have to pick when to turn right. It is just like paddling past barges and log jams only not as hard and nowhere near the consequences if you get it wrong. Look closely and you will see me.

A friendly chat at sea

The helicopter that  seems to do a three hour shark patrol each morning

Scooting into Camden Haven

Some of the crowd for the presentation. Bit hard looking straight into the sun but all good talent does as it is told. Ron, pick your old teacher. I got him first look but it was only 47 years ago.

Hit the water at 7.00am and paddled out past the headland where I had caught many a wave in my youth. In fact one ten footer really hurt when I took off too late and the board dropped away underneath me. I landed on my side on the board which would have snapped a modern surfboard but in those days the board won and my ribs didn’t.

We were expecting 25knots from the north but it didn’t happen. I had the sail down most of the way and just north of Racecourse it came head on. Luckily it was light but the situation made it difficult to keep to the radio sked. The Racecourse area has a headland with a cut right down the middle and what looks like a sunken headland out to sea with a series of rock islands leading out to it. There is a cliff about halfway out that used to amuse some of the Port Macquarie blokes back in my day. Before the wind came up the boys would catch waves and in the afternoon they would swim out to the island and jump off the cliff. I wonder if that still happens.

Lyn was up on the cliff at Point Plomer but she reckoned it was a bit messy to go in. Judging by the headland just to the north I agreed and so had my sandwiches about a kilometer out, drank as much as I could and headed for Port Macquarie. Lyn followed to the end of the point and took some photos. Now that I am a media tart and performer for the camera I went as close to the rocks as I was game to.

There is a long beach down to Port and we had agreed Lyn would go the long way, back through Kempsey. We had agreed 11.30 for the radio sked and Lyn arrived at 11.35 because of all the roadworks. We planned that she would drive down into the southern corner and I would come in near the big rock. In front of the entrance to the Hastings River I could see it was all a lot different to what I expected. The fierce run out tide was directed to the south, not far off the Flagstaff rocks and the wind had become a strong nor’easter. Bugger.

I called Lyn and advised that I would watch and plan so not to worry if I was a bit slow. Waves crashed into the runout stream so I stayed to the north until a set had passed through. With power on and heading towards the rocks the next decision was where to turn right. A huge wall of white water was coming over my left shoulder roaring like a freight train so that made it easy. Go right now, and be bloody quick about it. There were a couple of surfers on my left as I passed to the south of the big rock. The waves threatened to pick us up and dump us unceremoniously but with a bit of back paddling and then full power forwards I was onto the sand where Lyn grabbed the front to make sure I didn’t wash sideways and back out.

I was pretty pleased with the effort I must say. We chatted with the lifesavers who helped carry Old Yella up to the car park and I logged off with Marine Rescue.

35.4km on the log.The sunken headland near north of Pt Plomer

Passing through the sunken headland. Three shags stayed and did not take off.

Cracked headland. Look closely

Playing chicken with the rocks for the camera

Coming into Port Macquarie. Timing is everything.

Applying the brakes

Lyn      DAY 11            Take off today is from Crescent Head, Steve launched at 7am. Today’s first radio call in, is Point Plomer at 9am. Steve said, “You will enjoy the drive to Point Plomer, it’s an interesting trip. It’s a dirt road but you’ll be ok.”

Ok, I think about this but now that the beast and I are friends I look forward to the drive. For many kilometres it’s just straight road running alongside mostly National Park. Then the ocean starts to appear, I stop to see if I can see Steve, but no luck, I continue on the road. Small camp areas start to appear; without stopping they look to consist of approx. 20 sites. There are a few more of these campsites along the way. Then I encounter the bends quite steep with a long drop off over the edge. No problems the beast is responding to my touch, it may not like Steve’s heavy hands after this trip! ✊

When I arrive at Point Plomer it’s overcast and cool, not too many campers up and about. I don’t imagine Steve will land here as it’s pretty rough.

9am “Old Yella to base, over.” The conversation continues between us and Steve explains that it’s a bit rough out there today, hence it’s taking a little longer that first thought. He calls back in at 9.30 and has decided not to come in; wise move I think. He sits off the Point and has his morning tea. I get some good photos as he heads out around the Point on his way to Port Macquarie.

I enjoy writing this blog and my postings on Instagram, it keeps my mind busy helping not to focus and worry about Steve out there in the ocean. While there isn’t a lot of time for sightseeing on this journey, I have still had the opportunity to visit places I never even new existed, such as Point Plomer and Hat Head.

Our radio call is due for 11.30 and it has taken me longer than we thought to drive from Plomer back through Kempsey and down the highway to Port Macquarie; mainly due to the highway roadworks and lower speed limits. I pull into the car park at Town Beach Port Macquarie at 11.35 turn on the radio and call “Base to Old Yella over…” and to his word he is there calling back.

I can see him outside the wave zone, he’s sitting out there watching the waves and judging the tide. Once again on shore I notice the lifesavers observing the strange craft in the water. It’s a hairy ride through the surf to shore, I got some good photos this time. When he gets in the lifesaver on duty comes down and meets him and has a chat. More onlookers come up to have a chat and find out what it’s all about. One lady shows us the local Port Macquarie newspaper and Steve is front page news. The lifesaver on duty organises for one of the other lifesavers to help Steve carry the kayak to the car as no ramps here.

Another full day but a very successful trip.

Lyn thinks he is a bit of a hunk. I think we look about the same.

Logged on with Trial Bay Marine Rescue and raced out Back Creek much easier than the trip in. It was very hot and not much wind so by the time I got to Hat Head 25km away I was cooking.

At 9.00am two dive boats headed out to a rock a few kilometres offshore. I could see them but they were too far out for me. After about 10 km I passed a rock maybe 3km off the beach with one runabout and a bloke spear fishing. They passed me an hour later as the wind picked up and they headed towards Hat Head.

Lyn was up on the headland so radio communication went well but it was more than 20 minutes to get back across the footbridge and down to the entrance to the creek so I beat her there. As I approached a stink boat overtook me and sort of headed into the creek. I backed off staying less than 2m off the rocks allowing him plenty of room. He went too far to the right and hit the sand. I thought he would go up onto the beach but no, he was coming up the creek where the tide was running out quite fast and it was a lot less than waist deep. I paddled up, staying well to the left while about eight people grabbed his boat and walked it up the creek which was a pretty good effort. Funny how you expect people to know what they are doing and then find out otherwise. I crossed over in front of them, rang Lyn and then laid down in the water to cool off.

After a feed and lots more to drink I applied sunscreen liberally again and set off for Crescent Head. The nor’easter picked up which exercised my right toe constantly fighting to keep the boat on track down the waves. Crescent looks a lot different from the water to when I used to surf there 47 years ago but some things don’t change and I knew there had to be a creek in the corner next to the rocks. People were everywhere but I missed all of them and paddled through small waves and shallow water up the creek which was knee deep with kids and mums in bikinis providing a neat slalom course.

Lyn back the ute down the boat ramp to just above the water. When I lifted the kayak onto the roof my shoulder locked. It is permanently out of position due to an accident in 2006 and sometimes it gets caught. I just relax and wait a bit before I move it. For the first time someone else saw it. Lyn said it was obviously out of position with a hole in the muscles. It was good to know that because I have always felt like a bit of a sook when it happens. Maybe I could use it as a party trick except it hurts too much.

44.9km on the log.

Pretty froth, but signals wind

Rock out at sea with Hat Head in background

Approaching Smokey Cape

Not many people get to see Smokey Cape lighthouse from this angle

Lyn    DAY 10       Steve left South West Rocks at 8.30am, a late start today. Our first radio call in is at Hat Head. I arrive at Hat Head at 9.30. What a beautiful spot. The bay is edged by well tended dunes; the sign tells me that dune care started in Hat head. As I work for Richmond Landcare as their Schools Officer I also have an opportunity on this trip to observe what is happening in regards to the environment in other areas. The foreshore consist of creamy grains of sand as far as the eye can see. The conditions today are perfect, small waves but fun to ride. A creek entrance meets the ocean at the southern end of the beach, looping around the corner and meandering under a footbridge.

The tide is running out and many people are using the creek as a fun ride. The floats today are varied and at times quite odd. There are many large swans with children clinging to them, a blow up raft the size of a small houseboat with 3 adults and 4 children aboard, as well as the usual array of boogy boards.

I enquired at the National Parks office as to the best way to reach the headland and was informed that I could drive across the bridge and up the road to the headland or I could go via the walk bridge over the creek and follow the path. After sitting in the car for the last nine days a walk along the path to the headland sounded perfect. It was great to be amongst nature again, the path weaved along the lush northern side of the headland. It reminded me of home and the Dirawong Headland in Evans Head. I stopped just before the peak as I learnt yesterday that I need to have a clear line of of sight towards Steve to pick up the radio signal.

I’m sitting on a rocky outcrop amongst the banksias, lomandras and coastal wattle. While below the village and caravan park are wall to wall people, tents and caravans, up here I have only encountered 10 people along the pathway.

Steve is due to radio in at 11.30, it is now 11.20; he is spot on time and going to come in to Hat Head for a break before continuing. I have to scoot down the hill as it took me 20 minutes to walk up. I get to the bottom and then climb into the beast and drive to the creek mouth. I arrive to see Steve sitting on the beach next to Old Yella.

The heat has got to him today, he sits in the creek to cool off. Then he has something to eat and drink to refuel his body.

He has explained that when his body has used up all its fuel he really feels stuffed. He takes food with him, but if the seas are rough it’s hard to stop to get it out. Bananas are a real staple for him, easy to access and eat; one banana gives him energy to continue.

Revived he heads back into the water for the next leg of the journey to Crescent Head. Our next check in time is 3pm.

I arrive at Crescent Head and look for a location to load the kayak. I find the ramp near the surf club, so I park the truck and walk over to an open space to receive his radio call. It’s great I can see him coming in before he calls. I walk towards the creek entrance where he will come in. I hear the lifesavers talking while they look through their binoculars.

“What is it?”

“Don’t know,” says his mate, “It’s got a sail but I can see someone paddling.”

“I don’t want to interrupt but I couldn’t help but hear your comments, I can explain what it is.” Other onlookers also listen in.

People are fascinated on the beaches when they see Steve coming in especially when he has the sail hoisted.

Steve radios in and I quietly tell him of the interest on shore. “I better not stuff up the entrance then,” he replies. And he doesn’t!Hat Head  with the little creek

 

Perfect conditions as I left Nambucca Heads and powered down to Scotts Head. Every 30 seconds or so I would pass a blue bottle right next to the kayak so was pleased that I wasn’t in the water.

Each morning recently I have seen a small black helicopter following the coast which I assumed was on shark patrol. About halfway to Scotts Head when I was about 2km off the coast it stopped and circled about four times. Presumably they had seen sharks and were having a look so I just concentrated on putting distance between us.

Morning tea just of Scotts Head was very pleasant and as I finished the wind started. When I raised the sail both of the starboard stays had come loose. Luckily a long piece was still clipped to the mast at trailed back to where I could grab it. With a bit of impromptu engineering it was nearly as good as new. That was lucky because as the wind grew to about 20knots it swung more east and kept me busy trying to stay on course.

With such a strong wind I was early into South West Rocks. The support crew was checking out Trial Bay and I couldn’t raise her because it was 45 minutes before the agreed time. I called Ch16 and spoke to the Trial Bay Marine Rescue Tower who advised that there is a small creek at South West Rocks that I was not aware of. Thought that would do me so I headed towards where he said it was. The waves were pretty rough so I watched a set go through, followed the back of the next wave right into the creek without getting hammered. A strong runout tide turned me sideways which I am sure would have caused problems for the average bloke but luckily I got sorted before the next lot hit and I used the waves to carry me through the racing tide.

All in all a pretty easy 28km before heading back to Nambucca for the official welcome. That was day 9 and all is going well. The support crew is terrific, the interest from almost everyone has been incredible and I really think we are making a difference. The only thing that I can’t fix is anxiety experienced by Lyn about our rendezvous points and times but we have not had any problems so far.

Morning tea on the high seas

Party over and back to work

Lyn      It’s DAY 9 and I think I have conquered Steve’s 4 wheel drive. Well at least on the road. He has shown me how to put it into 4 wheel drive omg he REALLY trusts me to do that!!

Back to the paddling, Steve launched this morning from Shelly Beach at Nambucca Heads. After a bucket load of sunscreen was liberally applied to his six pack body, next he checked that everything was in order and off he went; ALMOST. He was waving at me and then turned back signalling that he was coming in. Realising there was a problem I grabbed the front of the kayak as he landed. Could you please clip the straps together on the front hatch, missed it and water will come in. This was easy fixed and he then went out into the waves backwards and was on his way, it was 8am. We arranged for a radio call rendezvous at Scotts Head at 9am.

I left Nambucca and headed for Scotts Head. My phone Nav led me off the highway early onto windy roads for many kms. Then I had to sit for 15 minutes at bridge works for the new freeway. I finally arrived at the rendezvous point at 8.55. I called “base to Old Yella” no reply  After a few more attempts I decided to wait and call again at 9.30. At 9.30 I heard “Old Yella to base” greatly relieved I replied. However I couldn’t see Steve, he said that he was right in front of the headland and I should be able to see him. He described what he could see and thought he saw the truck, then he said there is a bus driving up the road near you. “No buses near here.” It turned out that he was in front of the headland around the corner from where I was.

We talked about his guesstimated time for South West Rocks, he said I’ll call in at 12noon and let you know how close I am. Off I take again and I get to South West Rocks at 11.15, I had time to spare so firstly I checked out South West Rocks but it was pretty messy. Secondly I drove out to Trial Bay and found it much calmer and beach access to load the kayak. As it was nearing noon I headed up to the high point next to the old jail, at noon I called Steve …. no reply. It was pretty rough out in front now, I kept calling. Then my phone rang, it was Steve “I’m already in.” The wind had changed to east north east and he had been able to use his sail.

Not the best day; for my anxiety levels but the main thing is that he had arrived safely.

DAY 9 part 2            We returned to Nambucca Heads for a planned entry into the river. Another well attended event, this time organised by John Vernon, from the Greens. In attendance were Justin Fields, MLC Jeremy Buckingham MLC, two councillors, local elders and numerous interested attendees.

Once again we have been astonished by people’s generosity, the local Greens conveyor Matthew and his wife Carol offered us the use of their recently vacated house on their property.

Thank you to everyone from Nambucca/Bellingen Greens for a great event and for the pages of signatures for the Climate Emergency Declaration petition.

One more thing Happy Birthday to John Vernon whose birthday it was today.

Waiting near the wall at Nambucca. It is covered in graffiti on the top. Lots of colour. Can really only see this one from the water though. While waiting I saw a 2m bull shark cruise into the river and later four dolphins fished near me. Uncle Martin, who did welcome to country, reckons bull sharks don’t bit black fellas. Put us both in the river with a bull shark though and I reckon he might swim faster than me. Gave him one of my tee shirts, told him it was a large but it is actually a medium. Should help with weight loss incentive though eh Martin…hee hee.

Greens MLC Jeremy Buckingham leads the way with fellow Greens MLC  Justin Field in the kayak behind him

Nambucca welcome

Welcome to country. Lyn told me to take the hat off but I forgot

The only names I can remember there are Tu & Martins (and mine) but they are the Gumbaynggirr Elders. I think they have to keep a rein on Martin which would be a full time job I reckon.

Uncle Martin, Justin Field and Jeremy Buckingham

Bit of a doddle today, 43.5km downwind to Nambucca Heads. Not much happened except for a quick stop to repair the rigging. It could have been done on the water but would have been much harder.

About 4km past Sawtell a couple of lifesavers came out to check on me. They had been alerted by someone on the beach that “something was out there”. When the caught up we had a chat and they radioed back that I was who they thought I was. Apparently marine rescue had kept them in the loop.

Coming into the corner at Shelly Beach was a wee bit wild with waves crashing over rocks so I dropped the sail a fair way out and floated up onto the sand near the boat ramp. Photos are from yesterday on the tough camera.Blueberries are eating the bananas even on the Coffs hills

I think I know why they call it Split Solitary

A friendly blue bottle

Lyn:   DAY 7    Steve left Arrawarra at 7.30am where he launched next to the Aboriginal fish traps. Steve grew up in Grafton and spent a lot of his early life around Wooli, Yamba and Arrawarra. He has a good knowledge of these areas and their history.

He had a much better paddle today, even had a bit of help from a northerly enabling him to use his sail for part of the trip.

He was welcomed into Coffs Harbour by a colourful flotilla of kayaks, surfboards and various paddling craft. The Coffs Harbour Climate Action Network did a great job of organising Steve’s  welcome to their town.

Uncle Martin the local Gumbaynggirr Elder welcomed Steve to Coffs Harbour. Tu’ulenana Iuli,  better known as Tu also a local man and proud Maori, performed a colourful canoe welcoming ceremony.

There was a large crowd present, who listened with interest to Steve’s reasons for his journey and the importance of addressing climate change. Many people signed the petition on hand on the day. The Climate Emergency Declaration petition is growing every day. Don’t forget to go online to add your signature; go to www.climateemergencydeclaration.org/sign

Once again nbnnews covered the event, if you missed it you can see it on their website.

Thank you to our friend Lyn Phillips and her daughter Louise who have looked after us during our stay in Coffs.

 

DAY 8    Up n at em… on the water at 7.30am. Steve launched Old Yella amidst the triathlon event taking place at Coffs Jetty, don’t worry there was plenty of room for everyone. Our friend Lyn and I were at the call in spot at Sawtell Headland at 8.30am. Steve’s call advised us that he had a problem with his sail, he saw a small beach on a rocky outcrop and came in there. We could see what was happening through the binoculars, he managed to repair the problem and launched out through a lull in the breakers to continue on his way to Nambucca Heads. Steve isn’t due to Nambucca until tomorrow afternoon for another event. He landed at a beach just north of the entrance and will put in there tomorrow for the short paddle to the mouth of the Nambucca river.

He paddled 43.5km today in 7 hours. The day he paddled in the strong southerlies over much the same distance it took him 10 hours. This demonstrates the benefit of good conditions.

Left Arrawarra Headland at 7.30am with an easterly breeze. A turtle floated near the front of the headland but dived as soon as it saw me, unlike the two at The Sandon that ignored me. Lots of people dotted the headlands enjoying their perspective on the Pacific. Not sure what they thought but it was on its best behaviour; blue, white foam against the rocks and a 10 knot breeze. I was in Solitary Island territory.

After the big point at Sandy Beach the wind changed to the North East but after a half hour frolic with the sail up it turned on the nose again. Split Solitary drifted past on my left, reminding me of a very close encounter with a whale in the same spot in 2008. It just rolled up beside me to have a look with its enormous eye at what might be on top of the funny yellow thing.

Through a few patches of blue bottles (Pacific Man o’ War) until the wind turned ENE and up went the sail again for a quick dash into Coffs, arriving at 1:45pm just over 6hrs from the start and 32km.

NBN was to be there at 2:30pm. Ashley was there already with his kayak, as was Sarah a fellow Climate Reality Leader and great mover and shaker. NBN filmed arriving with the flotilla and did an interview which I thought went really well. Uncle Martin did a welcome to country and Tu linked Australia with NZ with a great Maori harka about bringing the canoes in.

The mayor, Denise Knight arrived right at the end, signed the petition and for the first time stated that Climate Change is real and serious. That is a big step for Sarah and the dedicate climate action group .

Arrawarra Headland with the Aboriginal fish traps

Flotilla at Coffs Jetty

Onto the beach

Tu dragging the canoes in

Sarah, me and Uncle Martin

Welcome group

 

Up at 4.00am but not keen on the wind, looked too much south in it for me and too much of it. Never mind, back to Angourie in the corner at Spooky Beach. Was jealous of a “goat boater” who was enjoying himself catching waves out of the wind. Got a shot of some surfers at Angourie Point and then set off round the point towards Brooms Head.

The nose climbs towards the sky

We crash down with a thump

And pretend we are a submarine

Dive, dive, dive

Then up we go and power on full throttle

Bloody southerlies

 

Flap flap flap, my hat slaps my ears

The white water roars

Crash it hits the boat and drenches even my hat

The noise is incessant

Bloody southerlies

 

Cliffs on my right but stay close

Do anything to reduce the wind

But watch the waves

Don’t get caught

7km from another person that would be messy

We don’t like messy

Bloody southerlies

 

There’s Broomes Head

I can tell by the trees

It is a long way off and the wind

The wind doesn’t want me to get there

Who will win the battle

Not the bloody wind I can tell you

Bloody southerlies

It took five hours to reach Broomes Head and it was a relief to hit the sand and have a feed. I drank deeply and headed back out with another two hours to The Sandon for a scheduled stop. The Sandon was pretty gloomy and there didn’t look like a way in but luckily I know the entrance. Stay close to the break on the south side and you won’t get a nasty surprise. Lyn met me there right on time as she had done at Broomes Head. I was feeling the pressure but Minnie Waters was my goal and that is where I was going to go. It was a bit over three hours but the wind backed off a bit and I made it ten minutes early. 41.5km, 10hrs very hard slog. Very satisfying.

All was pretty good. A couple of blokes helped lift the kayak onto the roof because I was buggered. We got back to the tent at Wooli but then the day started to take its toll. Lyn gave me a beer, which I struggled with, then a piece of cheese and a cracker. I went to sleep, cold and exhausted. There was no chance I could have written this nor could I have taken the images off the camera and loaded them to the website. My brain had shut down. I had done what I said I would do though.

After an hour I woke, Lyn cooked pasta and I started to feel OK again but after posting briefly on Facebook I collapsed into sleep again.

6^th January

This was supposed to be decent paddling but the rain was teeming down with a strong wind with way too much south in it for me. We checked the beach and visibility was about 300m so the boss put her foot down. No paddling. We did meet a lovely crew which is covered in Lyn’s blog.

After packing up in the rain we quit Wooli and headed to a motel in Coffs Harbour where luckily the sun came out and everything except the mattress dried. Discovered that the problem with the back of the ute was the seal on the canopy, not my construction component. At least finding the problem allowed me to try to fix it. Cross fingers. Shame I didn’t shut Lyn inside and pour water on it before we left to make sure it didn’t leak but I reckoned I had it covered. Oh well, “Trust me” doesn’t seem to work like it used to. Maybe it won’t rain again. That would work.

No images on the Olympus Tough. I dunno. Have deleted everything and will try again tomorrow. Bit of a disappointment though as I went in really close to the rocks to get a shot and had to be very careful.The calm before the storm so to speak. Leaving Spooky.

Trust me. I’m fixing the leak.

Lyn:

DAY 5      Before I start my blog for today, I want to wish my beautiful and caring granddaughter Serenity a very happy 19th birthday, love you.

Our day commenced at 4am. We had to drive back to Angourie, where we finished yesterday, which was an hours drive from our campsite. Due to the “wetness” problem last night we couldn’t complete all our online commitments. So Steve wanted to make sure this was done before we left. We finally got away at 5.30am. Oh and another thing, today is the first time I have brushed my teeth using soda water! I felt quite bubbly. all our fresh water was either too hot, too sweet, or in  the case of soda water – just right.

We arrived at Spooky Beach (gotta love that name) to be greated by strong southerly winds. Steve pushed out into the surf at 7am; it will be a hard slog today.

During his day paddles Steve sometimes takes short breaks at beaches along the way, if there is a safe landing spot. Today he came in at Brooms Head through a small surf break, a bit choppy but no problems. He needed to stop to eat and build his fluids back up. With the southerly every stroke he makes propels him forward, if he stops paddling to eat or drink he goes backwards. Once he was fed and watered he ventured back into the water for the next leg, Sandon River; one of my favourite places.

I have stayed at Sandon with my family, it’s one of the most pristine and untouched places I have visited. It’s a National Park and well monitored. It’s an ideal place to get away from all the trappings of life. However not for me today! My 2 way radio won’t work, my camera battery appears to be flat and there is no phone reception. Steve always gives me a time that he expects to arrive,  “Trust me he says I will be there when I say.” I pull out some old technology, my trusty binoculars and search the horizon.

True to his word he arrives almost on the dot of 1pm the time he gave me. He has had a hard slog but after a brief refuel wants to push onto Minnie Waters. He is an amazing man, determined, driven, unique, tough and to me very special.

His estimated time to arrive at Minnie Waters was 5pm. As our radios were not working I wasn’t sure how he was travelling. But true to his word as I searched the horizon, there he came at 4.50pm into Minnie Waters. Steve’s guesstimating of his arrival times is uncanny. I know that sailors and paddlers can estimate arrival times based on their experience and conditions, but he is very close to accurate.

This has been a very hard day, Steve paddled for 10 hours, over 42 km. See the video I took tonight on his kayak4earth Facebook page and you will see how much today took its tole.

I must at this time acknowledge our thanks to the Marine Rescue volunteers all along the East Coast. They have all been supportive and eager to offer local knowledge for bar crossings etc. along the way.  In addition they have been enthusiastic about our journey and what it’s all about.

DAY 6

The southerly was still blowing this morning and it was pouring rain; the ocean was pretty messy and the visibility was poor. Steve said I could go it’s not that much worse than yesterday… When Steve asked me to come on this trip as his support crew, he gave me a bit of an insight into the role. One of the points he highlighted was that if he wasn’t thinking clearly due to fatigue or other influences I should make him see sense. Well that’s what I did this morning. There was no way he was going to have another day like yesterday or perhaps worse.So a lay day was called.

 

We called into Wooli Marine Rescue (which is the smallest Marine Rescue unit in NSW) to let them know our decision; as we had been logging in and out with them since Evans Head. Jacki who has been great said “I think that is wise, adding where are you?” “In front of the tower.” I replied. She said that seeing we were right there to go up and meet Graham and check out the radar. We did go up and met Graham and had a chat and thanked him for his help. During this conversation the phone rang and it was Jacki inviting us around to her home for coffee on this wet bleak morning.

 

We turned up at their home, two bedraggled strangers and were made welcome. It turns out that Jacki’s husband, Richard is the Unit Commander for Wooli Marine Rescue and also a passionate kayaker. We had a very interesting morning with them and Richard makes a great coffee! The weather has not been kind to us in Wooli but the people certainly have.

 

We headed back to camp and it was oh so wet. Steve said let’s drive into Grafton (approx. 40 minutes away) and get a bigger tarp to cover the car and the gazebo,(which had a fine haze of rain drifting through it). We got down the road about 5 km and he said oh bugger it, lets go back and pack up and stay in a motel in Coffs tonight.

 

So here we are. We have spread our wares so to speak across numerous car spaces, the manager very graciously letting us these use these spaces. “You’re right he said it’s not busy yet.”

All dried out we caught up on emails etc., then a pleasant meal.

Another day at the office tomorrow. Steve will put in at Arrawarra and paddle to Coffs Harbour. There is a welcome to Coffs at 3pm, this has been organised by Climate Action Network, Coffs Harbour. We hope to see you there.

Yesterday was good to sort out a few things. In particular I took the VHF back and borrowed Vince’s that is identical. He’s a mate from Ballina and I was pretty lucky. Spent an hour and a half on TLC FM at Yamba with Di Ellis in a very free ranging interview and immediately followed it up with Jessica from Illawarra ABC. The media has been fantastic at a local level showing just how important grass roots action is to overcome the power of the fossil fuel lobbyists.

Thought there would be no paddling today but decided to give it a shot after doing a radio interview with Nowra, which went great, and then making a call into another station where I found that shock jocks are still around and that their brains still have not gotten any bigger. Left Yamba at mid-day and hit the southerly at the end of the south wall. It was a bit of a bugger so I decided to call it quits at Spooky Beach, Angourie. Because Angourie Point provided shelter the last kilometer was fine but the first eight were very slow and wet.

Anyway, a bit is better than nothing so we headed off to set up camp at Wooli. I had built a removable canopy that has windows, floor etc for the ute, but unfortunately I left a way for the rain to get in so mattress, bedding etc was soaked. Two hours in the sun helped but only partially and we didn’t have an extra tarp to cover the mattress. Not to worry, the thermal blanket in the first aid kit did the job and I reckon we have a fine place to sleep tonight. Apparently there is another opinion but when she is really tired I don’t think that will matter.

Up at 4.00am tomorrow and see if I can get to Minnie Water before the south easter makes life pretty ordinary.

9km for the day.Looking back at the entrance to the Clarence River when the southerly hit

Leaving Yamba. Nice out of the wind!

Darren from Wooloweyah helps load at Angourie. My bit must have been a lot higher than his.

LYN:

Steve told me that as part of my support crew role I have to write a daily blog, as this is day 4 I am a wee bit behind. So I will write a precise of the last three days.

The send off from Ballina was great, media, family and friends were all there. Steve’s daughter Amanda did warn me that it could be hectic as she had coordinated one of his previous trips. She  was right. Nbnnews were great, even when Steve knocked their GoPro off his kayak into the deep briny water.  But my salty son Corey dived in and retrieved the camera.

Ok so I am new at this role and I am bound to make a few mistakes! Steve was due to arrive at  Evans Head after leaving Ballina that afternoon (part of my home ground) by 5pm  I was there in the prime position above the Evans Head bar at 4pm. I waited and waited and by 5pm no Steve, I was getting worried so my two sons who were driving their 4 wheel down the beach hoping to see him along the way, said we haven’t sighted him either, why don’t you drive down the hill and check out if you missed him coming in the bar. I crossed paths with the boys as I drove down and they drove up, but still no sign of Steve. We headed back up to the lookout and as we looked towards the bar there he was already through it.

Relieved we met him at the boat ramp and he SAID ‘did you get some shots as I came through the bar it was pretty hairy and they could be the shots of the trip? WHAT CAN I SAY…

DAY 2     Early start 6am from Evans Head. Steve headed out and I was in position this time to get some great shots as he went out the bar. Greg Mace a local and friend of mine turned up hoping to see him cross the bar, which is always a bit tricky at Evans. I had the good camera and gave Greg my IPad and said can you also get some shots. Well at this point I should add that Greg is a professional photographer. Thank goodness for Greg as once again the support crew didn’t quite get the action.

Steve was due at Yamba at 5pm to be greeted by a council representative, local climate supporters as well as some of the Australian Traditional Longboarders.

Well he had a speedy trip down the coast with the help of the northerly wind and made it in way ahead of time.  We waited it out at the infamous Sedges Reef pub at Iluka gathering signatures for the petition while waiting for the designated time to arrive at Yamba. Well Steve did wait and when he finally set off for Yamba the southerly hit. I must say a big thank you to the small but enthusiastic group who turned up to meet Steve in the pouring rain(see the photos on our Instagram site).

DAY 3   The southerly winds were too strong to paddle against yesterday so we had a lay day.

DAY 4               I’m sitting on a log under a pandanus tree on Spooky Beach Angourie, just south of Yamba. I can see Steve just beyond the wave zone heading this way. Shortly he will take a sharp right and come into Spooky. I have checked out the access very tricky as all the pathways are very steep and long, however I have found a 4 wheel drive access, which does say authorised vehicles only but I don’t think that will worry Steve.

I was all ready to help load the kayak but a hunky guy named Darren from Wooloweyah offered to help, so I will  save my muscles for tomorrow.

Today was a good day for the support crew, I don’t think I did anything wrong.

However there was a major problem.

Might I add here that I am not an experienced camper. We arrived at Wooli to set up camp for the next three days. We put up the Gazebo unloaded the truck lifted everything off the mattress where we were sleeping and it was wet, wet, wet. Steve had assured me that he had worked on the problems of the truck leaking and all was a ok.

He added some super adhesive that he had Brought along JUST in case. Let it dry and then poured a bucket of water over it and said “Its not leaking now.” Mmm not quite sure about this.

At this time the sky was darkening with the ominous impending promise of rain.

Before we left my son lent me a mini sleeping tent of his Just in case there was a problem. I set it up and Steve said where’s is the cover?

“What cover?”

It turned out to be just a mosquito dome. “That’s ok I said I will put it under the gazebo.”

It’s now approaching 10pm and the stars are out, so as I sign off Steve has retired to the now WATERPROOF truck. I will let you know tomorrow if he has mastered the waterproofing….

2^nd January 2017

Up before the sparrows this morning. Had a chat with the Volunteer Marine Rescue folk before the sun came up. They overlook the bar from way up on the hill so the view excellent. I could see where I came in yesterday which he described as the “old trawler channel”. He reckoned to get out just stick to the south wall, pick your time and go like blazes for 30m and it’s all over.

I approached a large washing machine that they call the bar and did as he suggested. Only went through one wave, just made it over the next and then I was out. It was a bit bouncy all the way round the Dirrawong but smoothed out when I got to the long beach that runs to Woody Head. Visibility was poor due to mist but I eventually saw Woody Head just above the sea and at about 20 degrees to my left. Shorter is better so I headed direct for it which took me out about 5km.  At 10.30am the wind came up and it was a breeze, so to speak, into Woody Head arriving about 11.45am where Lyn had been waiting for 15mins.

Arrived at the Clarence about 1:15pm after cruising with sail up nursing my blisters. Got to the Iluka pub about 2.30pm and had a couple of beers and a feed before heading over to Yamba for the allotted greeting at 5.00pm. The southerly hit at 4.00pm bringing plenty of rain so it was a rather bleak group that greeted me but we all enjoyed the rain after such a long dry spell.

No paddling tomorrow because the southerly is expected to be too strong. One radio interview at Yamba then up to Ballina to do something about the VHF that karked itself just after I left Ballina.

Day log 47.9km ( but that included a side visit to the Iluka pub)

Into the washing machine

Arriving at Woody Head. One gun, one bullet, that’s all I needed.

Leaving Woody Head. That’s better.

Another great day at the office

Yamba lighthouse

That’s not all. More came.

But some wanted to stay dry. That’s councilor Greg Clancy welcoming me

 

 

 

Brilliant start today with a great crowd of friends, family and well wishers. NBN News did a great job. Mayor David Wright, MLC Greens Dawn Walker and my mate Klaas all had great things to say about the cause and my dedication.

A small flotilla came down the river to the rescue tower and a couple of hardy souls came out into the sea for a kilometer where a gusty northerly blew me down to Evans Head. The conditions were a great confidence booster as it was a bit breezy and there were plenty of white caps. Both sides of the English Channel and Chesapeake Bay had shown me far worse.

Having left the Ramada at 1:15pm I arrived at Evans Head about 5.30pm. The bar was breaking right across but there was a way through with a dash across the middle between sets. The crowd on the wall must have been impressed because I saw a few flashes go off in the gloom. To be honest I was a bit buggered by the time I got into the river and plodded along against the outgoing tide.

Met up with Lyn and her sons Corey and Nathan at the boat ramp, loaded Old Yella onto the ute and headed for the pub to buy a beer.

Everything went well except for the radio. I logged on at the Ballina Tower but then it died. It was brand new so I need to get that sorted out. Had to use the base vehicle radio to log off with Evans Head Marine Rescue.

Back to Lyn’s at Broadwater, open a beer, and then find out Facebook has gone berserk. Thanks so much to everyone for their support. It is astounding. It really feels like we are doing something worthwhile. We are so grateful!

Tomorrow I have to get back out over that wild bar but I will be able to see the waves instead of interpret the roar behind me.

This is why I do this and why most of us do what we do. We owe it to the kids and grandkids. Look closely and you will see Tawny placing a feather from a brahminy kite (sea eagle) into the hold to keep me safe.

Mayor of Ballina, David Wright, signs the petition for Gail.

With Dawn Walker, new Greens MLC, doing a live Facebook video

Corey Thomson dives for the NBN GoPro that the cameraman attached to Old Yella that I managed to flick off. Klaas looks on with Lynne and Wolfie.

Climate Angels arrive in the nick of time – Phew!

Small flotilla escorts me out of boat harbour

Away I go to Evans Head

Log at Evans: 35.8km